The Bosphorus
 A
stay in İstanbul is not complete without
a traditional and unforgettable boat
excursion up the Bosphorus, that winding
strait that separates Europe and Asia.
Its shores offer a delightful mixture of
past and present, grand splendor and
simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next
to yalı (shore-front wooden villas),
marble palaces abut rustic stone
fortresses, and elegant compounds
neighbor small fishing villages. The
best way to see the Bosphorus is to
board one of the passenger boats that
regularly zigzag along the shores. You
embark at Eminönü and stop alternately
on the Asian and European sides of the
strait. The round-trip excursion, very
reasonably priced, takes about six
hours. If you wish a private voyage,
there are agencies that specialize in
organizing day or night mini-cruises.
During the journey you pass the
magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace; farther
along rise the green parks and imperial
pavilions of the Yıldız Palace. On the
coastal edge of the parks stands the
Çırağan Palace, refurbished in 1874 by
Sultan Abdülaziz, and now restored as a
grand hotel. For 300 meters along the
Bosphorus shore its ornate marble
facades reflect the swiftly moving
water. At Ortaköy, the next stop,
artists gather every Sunday to exhibit
their works in a streetside gallery. The
variety of people creates a lively
scene. Sample a tasty morsel from one of
the street vendors. In Ortaköy, there is
a church, a mosque and a synagogue that
have existed side by side for hundreds
of years - a tribute to Turkish
tolerance at the grass roots level.
Overshadowing İstanbul's traditional
architecture is one of the world's
largest suspension bridges, the
Bosphorus Bridge, linking Europe and
Asia.
 The
beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just
past the bridge on the Asian side.
Behind the palace rises Çamlıca Hill,
the highest point in İstanbul. You can
also drive here to admire a magnificent
panorama of İstanbul as well as the
beautiful landscaped gardens. On the
opposite shore, the wooden Ottoman
villas of Arnavutköy create a contrast
with the luxurious modern apartments of
neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers
farther along stand the fortresses of
Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı facing
each other across the straits like
sentries guarding the city. The Göksu
Palace, sometimes known as Kücüksü
Palace graces the Asian shore next to
the Anadolu Hisarı. The second link
between the two continents, is the Fatih
Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the
waterway just past these two fortresses.
From Duatepe Hill, on the European side,
you can admire the magnificent panorama
of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below
Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park
bursts with color when its tulips bloom
in the spring. On the Asian shore is
Kanlıca, a fishing village that is now a
favored suburb for wealthy İstanbulites.
Crowds gather in the restaurants and
cafes along its shores to sample its
famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlıca and
Çubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (İbrahim
Paşa Woods), a popular retreat. In the
cafes and restaurants there you can
enjoy the delightful scenery and clear,
fresh air. Back on the European side, at
Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at
their moorings. The coastal road bustles
with taverns and fish restaurants from
Tarabya to the charming suburbs of
Sarıyer and Büyükdere. Sarıyer has one
of the largest fish markets in İstanbul
and is also famous for its delicious
varieties of milk puddings and börek
(pastries). On past Sarıyer, the narrow
strait widens and opens into the Black
Sea.
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